Vask: World-class dining at a reasonable price

Photos via Vask’s Facebook Page

Vask opened only this March but is now one of the top five restaurants in Manila. Not bad for the six-month-old baby of executive chef Luis Gonzalez, who has worked in the world’s top restaurants including the legendary El Bulli. Its interiors (classy but not overbearing), relaxed ambience, efficient service, and conversation-friendly sound level all contribute to the dining experience. But, as in very good restaurants, the food speaks for itself. 

At the main dining room where modern and traditional tapas are served, the food is straightforward. You don’t need to be a gastronome to appreciate the quality of the ingredients and the skill of the kitchen staff. Examples of precise cooking can be seen or, rather, tasted in the grilled baby octopus, which had crispy tentacles but tender heads; the flavorful fabada’s creamy white beans; and the softness of the medium ribeye steak contrasted wonderfully with a sprinkling of coarse Himalayan salt.

The scallops and black ink risotto’s complementing tastes and textures made eating it so enjoyable. The scallops surrendered amiably to my knife, the risotto had just enough bite, and the parmesan chips added a different flavor dimension. The squid ink was subtle but tasty, and was not tempered with too much citrus. In the hands of lesser cooks, these could have been rubbery cephalopods, grainy or mushy beans and dry, unwieldy steaks.

From starters to desserts, the flavors were so controlled — everything was given just the right touch so that the components of each dish really shined without overpowering. And yes, eating there will make anyone who likes delicious food (and who doesn’t?) burst into a brief foodie rant. Like I said, you don’t need to be a gastronome.

In the fine dining section, you can take your pick between two degustation menus (upwards of PHP3,000). A little knowledge of molecular gastronomy would help because they quiz you before they let you in. Yes, I am kidding. As in other degustation restaurants, your server will give you a little explanation of each course as it is presented to you so you have a better appreciation of what you are about to eat.

Eating 14 courses sounds daunting, even if I try to think of it as 14 bites consumed in two hours. However, having dined at two restaurants in Manila where degustation servings are really just the size they should be — and not in all-you-can-eat portions expected by people who want the most out of their buck — I’m less apprehensive about the prospect of staggering out of the dining room after a 14-course degustation. Must try on my next visit.

For something that is comparable to, and actually better than, some of Singapore’s celebrity restaurants, Vask makes world-class dining within our reach. No wonder it has enjoyed exposure in the newspapers and has been repeatedly subjected to food porn by bloggers. It’s the kind of place I want and can afford to come back to again and again because there are so many interesting things on the menu and there’s always something new.

You can get starters for PHP225-695, mains for Php390-4,200, and desserts for PHP210. Cocktails are PHP250-350, while non-alcoholic beverages are PHP70-360.

If you’re having bar fare, pintxos are under PHP100 each. You can have a glass of wine or caña with a pintxo or tortilla for PHP175-230. Boy, were we thankful we didn’t say “Doon na lang tayo sa mura!” and let that dictate where we should eat.

Vask, 5/F CLIPP Center, 11th Avenue corner 39th Street, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig. Phone: +63 2 2176563. Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-1am. Reservations are highly recommended.