Two years ago Andrew Zimmern, American chef and host of the TV show Bizarre Foods, made a fearless forecast: “I predict, two years from now, Filipino food will be what we will have been talking about for six months…I think that’s going to be the next big thing.”
And it’s happening.
Filipino cuisine has become the new darling of the culinary universe, with the world moving on from the freaky balut to the celebratory lechon and the many delicious ways we cook it. In the US, the website Vice.com just featured Jeepney, a Filipino restaurant in New York, on their Munchies channel. In social media, this article from the thrillist.com is enjoying the spotlight.
READ: Viral: Pinoy restaurant in New York on Vice.com
What, exactly, is the charm of Pinoy cuisine? “There is nothing passive about Filipino food. It’s about full-on flavor. Our food is very malasa. It’s hearty. We’re not about lightness,” Eat Out Now author Alicia Sy tells Coconuts Manila. “It’s a delicious and eclectic mix,” adds Interaksyon.com’s Cyrene dela Rosa, referencing the different cultures that have conquered our country and, consequently, our taste buds.
We gathered up the food scene’s most prolific writers — Alicia Sy; Cyrene dela Rosa; cookbook author Angelo Comsti (From Our Table to Yours); and Rogue magazine’s JJ Yulo — and some chefs — Sarsa’s JP Anglo, El Cirkulo’s Jay Gamboa — to ask them the big question: If you were to seduce someone into a love affair with Pinoy cuisine, what dish would you start with?
More importantly, where can you get the best version of these items? Below, we rank the dishes according to how many times they were recommended by our panel.
1. SISIG
Who would have thought a pig’s face could taste so delicious? Thank you, Pampanga, for showing us the way. It is said that this dish was invented by Aling Lucing Cunanan, who sold it at a small eatery located by the railroad tracks in San Fernando. She was murdered, allegedly by her husband, in 2008.
Why it’s hot: “It’s very unique. I think it’s a good ambassador because it piques people’s curiosities and the people who try it, end up liking it,” says Angelo Comsti. “It’s very casual; you enjoy it with beer, al fresco, so in itself it brings people together, which is how Pinoys like to eat: Together.” “It’s crunchy, porky, salty, and you can’t tell it’s made from the pig’s head,” adds chef Jay Gamboa.
Where to get it: “El Cirkulo (900 A. Arnaiz Ave, San Lorenzo Village; +63 2 810 2763) has the best sizzling version of sisig in Metro Manila,” reveals Cyrene dela Rosa. “For a more affordable option, I also like the sizzling version of Namnam (1/L Greenbelt 2, Ayala Center, Makati; +63 2 625 0515) and the lean version in El Chupacabra (5782 Felipe cor Polaris Sts, Bel-Air, Makati; +63 2 895 1919), which is a steal for around PHP120. If you’re looking to go out of town, Mely’s in Pampanga (Bgy Dolores, San Fernando, Pampanga; +63 45 9615296) has the best traditional and non-sizzling version.”
2. LECHON
Simply put, it’s roasted suckling pig that was handed down to us by our Spanish brothers. Anthony Bourdain proclaimed the lechon he had in Cebu as “the best pig in the world.” Usually served during big gatherings, its crunchy skin is often the first to go.
Why it’s hot: “We’re not the only ones who roast pigs but our lechon is loads tastier, and the skin, crispier, too,” says Cyrene dela Rosa. “Our lechon has universal appeal. It has a wow factor as the perfect party centerpiece.”
Where to get it: Milky Way (928 Pasay Road, San Lorenzo Village, Makati; +63 2 8434124) does a great job with its cuchinillo, says JJ Yulo. “For people who don’t know anything about Filipino food, I’d say, try the lechon. Try Pepita’s stuffed lechon (by appointment, +63 2 4254605) — the German, laing, and French ones are my favorites,” shares Cyrene dela Rosa, who also recommends Ulcing’s Cebu-style lechon de leche (AQ6, Jusmag Building, South Side Fort Bonifacio, Taguig; +63 2 4977957).
READ: Secret Supper: 13-course ‘Hayop na desgustacion” dinner at Pepita’s Kitchen
3. INIHAW AKA INASAL
Manileños refer to grilled food as inihaw (inihaw na baboy, inihaw na isda, inihaw na gulay, and so on), but people from Negros, particularly in Bacolod, call it inasal.
Why it’s hot: “When I think of Filipino food, inasal is the first to come to mind. I am Ilonggo. And when you say inasal, that means home. Our chicken inasal is one of the best grilled food items in Asia, I would say,” notes chef JP Anglo. “I’m a big inihaw fan. Inihaw na baboy or fish. And then I’d do a salad with tomato and red egg to go with it,” says Alicia Sy.
Where to get it: “I’d include chicken inasal as one of my favorite Filipino food items, and the way Sarsa (Unit 1-7, Forum South Global, 7th Ave corner 25th Street, BGC, Taguig; +63 927 7060773) does it, is now my favorite,” recommends JJ Yulo.
READ: Just opened: Sarsa Kitchen + Bar at Bonifacio Global City
4. SINIGANG
Sinigang is a sour stew overflowing with meat and vegetables. Here’s the thing: we use all sorts of meat, and all sorts of souring agents. Either way, we like to pour the sour stew over rice and eat whatever meat and vegetable is left from the bowl. Perfect for rainy weather.
Why it’s hot: Says JJ Yulo: “Sour is a flavor profile of a lot of your grub. It’s very distinct. Sinigang is food for the soul.” Adds Cyrene: “Sinigang is the dish that I crave for first when I’m sick of Western food. It’s also the dish that I cooked most often when I was based in NY for grad school, and it’s the dish my friends from other parts of the world request for me to cook whenever they come to my apartment. Sinigang is my favorite, whether pork, fish, or shellfish. ”
Where to get it: “Namnam (G/F Greenbelt 2, Ayala Center, Makati; +63 917 5399661) does an interesting take with watermelon,” says JJ. Alicia Sy agrees: “I like Namnam. I always order its watermelon sinigang, along with the patis wings,” adds Alicia Sy.
5. KARE-KARE
It looks like curry (and sounds like it), but it’s not. It’s thick and hearty, with stew made from peanuts (though a lot of Filipinos now use peanut butter), its color due to the reddish spice called atsuete.
Why it’s hot: “Kare-kare is one of the best food items that can represent the cuisine simply because it’s different,” says Cyrene. Angelo Comsti, meanwhile says, “I enjoy trying kare-kare with different kinds of bagoong. I like the sauce thick and velvety, which you blanket it on your rice, and put a little bagoong there.” I like Mesa’s kare-kare with tamarind bagoong. (Ground floor, Greenbelt 5, Makati. Tel. No. +63 2 7280886).”
Where to get: Cyrene recommends Café Juanita (19 West Kapitol Drive, Bgy Kapitolyo, Pasig; +63 2 4031952), Cocina de Tita Moning’s (315 San Rafael St, San Miguel, Manila; +63 2 7342146) and, for seafood kare-kare, Bale Dutung (Villa Gloria Subdivision, Sto. Rosario cor St. Francis Streets, Angeles, Pampanga; +63 45 8885163).
6. ADOBO
Adobo is the unofficial national dish, and we’re guessing it’s because it’s the default viand at most everybody’s home.
Why it’s hot: “The world associates us with adobo. There is no singular form of that dish; sabi nga nila, it varies from home to home. There’s so many interpretations so it’s hard to it to represent the cuisine. But then again, that might be a good reason,” explains Angelo.
Where to get it: Off the bat, JJ Yulo recommends the twice-cooked adobo at Kuya’s (21 Bayani Rd, Taguig; +63 2 7822802).
7. FRESH LUMPIA
This healthy dish, similar to Malaysia’s popiah, was brought to the Philippines by Chinese immigrants from Fujian province.
Why it’s hot: “A Chinese-style lumpia will balance a [Filipino] meal,” says JJ Yulo. Alicia adds: “If I were to host a Filipino dinner, I’d have fresh lumpia as the appetizer.”
Where to get: “Check out Spring by Ha Yuan (G/F BSA Mansion, 108 Benavides St, Legaspi Village, Makati; +63 2 4031508). They use an old recipe from the owner’s grandmother,” recommends Yulo.
8. KILAWIN
It’s like ceviche, but better.
Why it’s hot: When we asked Alicia Sy to draw up a menu for a Filipino dinner, she declared, “there has to be seafood, like kilawin.” JJ Yulo explains: “Kilawin is a big part of how we eat.”
Where to get: “This new place called Patricio’s (Unit 1, 49 Bayani Road, BGC, Taguig) specializes in kilawin from up and down the country,” JJ continues.
9. KAKANIN
Rice is a big part of how Filipinos eat. It even makes it to our desserts and snacks by way of kakanin.
Why it’s hot: When we asked JJ Yulo what three words come to mind when you hear the words Filipino food, he says: “sour, pork, and rice. Who doesn’t love rice?” Alicia Sy concurs: “I’m a big kakanin person. I’ll let you in on a secret. I have a secret [wish] to bring our kakanin forward. Malagkit na bibingka, cassava, espasol. Put it in a good packaging. If foreigners have accepted mango sticky rice, I’d really push for our kakanin.” Chef Jay Gamboa agrees: “Puto, kutsinta, bibingka and puto bumbong are among the best represenatives of Filipino cuisine.”
Where to get: Continues chef Jay, “I like the Polo Bulacan version, especially with the cheese. As for bibingka and puto bumbong, Via Mare (Facebook).”
10. BATCHOY
A noodle soup from Iloilo city, with lots and lots of pork.
Why it’s hot: “What makes the batchoy special is the guinamos (shrimp paste) and the broth from the pork, the bulalo, and beef bones simmered for hours,” says Cyrene. Chef Jayps thinks the dish is so good but terribly overlooked: “My goal is to elevate the batchoy to the level of ramen. It’s very underrated. Kailangan ng spotlight.”
Where to get: In Manila, Sarsa (Unit 1-7, Forum South Global, 7th Ave corner 25th Street, BGC, Taguig; +63 927 7060773) is your best bet. But in the Visayas, where the dish originated, Cyrene recommends: “21 Restaurant in Bacolod (21st Lacson St., Bacolod City. Tel. No. +639088913588. Facebook), and Netong’s in Iloilo (Facebook)
11. HALO-HALO
A few years back, Anthony Bourdain went to a Jollibee drive thru in the US and got halo-halo. He fell in love with its color and its many varied ingredients. And why not? It’s a dessert made pretty much from everything good: preserved fruits, beans, ice, ice cream, milk, and leche flan.
Why it’s hot: “Halo-halo might be an easy way to approach our cuisine. It’s cool, sweet, and refreshing—what’s not to like? Besides, devout Muslims can have it too,” says Cyrene. “To finish things off!” — JJ Yulo.
Where to get: “The award for best halo-halo goes to Milky Way (2/F, Milky Way Building, 900 Pasay road, Makati City. Tel. No. +63 2 8434124),” says JJ. Cyrene, however recommends Kabigting’s in Pampanga (2/F Nepo Mall, Angeles City, Pampanga. Tel. No. +045 6301219. Facebook). “They use pastillas to sweeten it,” she says.
12. TORTANG TALONG
Eggplant omelette is one of those dishes that are slowly disappearing in restaurant menus. It’s an effort to cook: You grill the eggplant, flatten it and then dip it in scrambled eggs. Some of the more patient cooks like to top this dish with minced meat (which turns it into rellenong talong), but that is even more of a challenge.
Why it’s hot: “It’s humble, but when made well, it’s crazy good. It’s my favorite Pinoy food,” says JJ Yulo.
Where to get: Sarsa (Unit 1-7, Forum South Global, 7th Ave corner 25th Street, BGC, Taguig; +63 927 7060773)
beryong says
i think, our tinola and nilaga recipes should also be included in the list
James P. Ong says
Mr Carino, thank you for taking time to leave a comment and your suggestions. We agree, the dishes you mentioned are indeed unique to the Philippines, but this story is about dishes to introduce Pinoy food to a first-timer. We don't want to shock the virgins, right?
That said, we are constantly on the lookout for dishes we can feature in Coconuts TV's Freaky Feasts program <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=THE22reqDrs>. Keep the suggestions coming!
Dandan Carino says
speaking about zimmerman, i think he would appreciate the more exotic dishes that our country has to offer such as pinikpikan of the cordillera , sauteed dog ribs and leeks of baguio,itag or mountain ham, fried ladygugs, and the list can go on and on as you go north to south Philippines . perhaps my friend angelo comsti can write something along those lines " the other side of filipino cuisine " Tell us something we dont already know coconuts. In certain parts of palawan eating dugong or manatee is a delicacy.