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It stands its ground among big named restaurants in that side of the mall.
 
COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Chelsea Kitchen, the latest offspring of the Raintree Restaurant Group, is hard to miss amid the expanse of SM Fashion Hall. Its walls are torn down, revealing a more open space. And though privacy is jeopardized, it manages to be welcoming.

Exhibit A: When the server offered a cup of warm water with a lemon slice after noticing my cough and rough voice. Or when I wanted to sit closer to the window only to be told by the manager that it was warmer in that section. It’s this kind and courteous service, something many other restaurants easily dismiss, which makes the restaurant inviting.
 

Mushroom Chicharon (PHP195)

The menu reads like a rundown of game day dishes and midnight cravings: crispy hot wings, mozzarella-stuffed mushroom risotto balls, fried calamari peppers, 4-Hour cola ribs. It’s the kind of stuff that doesn’t require utensils and the type I don’t mind getting my hands dirty for. But I was meeting someone and pigging out isn’t exactly a good thing. So I settled for something more forgiving. The mushroom chicharon is a Rocket Room appetizer that crossed over to Chelsea Kitchen.

On my visit, the mushroom chicharon was crispy but it could have used more crackle. Regardless, I found myself snacking on it like popcorn, dipped in the bright-flavored basil pesto and not the spiced vinegar, which has a pretty harsh sting.
 
                                        

Hot Tapa French Dip (P350)

I perused the menu further and realized the Kitchen’s fascination for truffles. It had been infused in its gravy fries, spinach cream dip, mushroom and bacon spaghetti and mac n’ cheese. It was even in one of the daily specials, the mushroom pizza. As a staunch believer that truffle oil isn’t liquid seasoning that can be drizzled on practically anything, I didn’t take the bait and got something a bit more promising: the hot tapa french dip.

It could have been a winner — the buttered bread was crusty and had the makings of a great soaking bun, while the au jus tasted like a savory onion soup — but the in-house tapa failed to deliver. It was a tad chewy and was missing the delightful beefy flavor distinct of the cured beef.
 
                                        

Fried Chicken Parmigiana (PHP320)
 

Around this time, the dizzying duet of that Carly Rae Jepsen song blasting from the make-up stand and the Christmas carols playing from the mall’s audio system had become quite hard to bear. It was a good thing that the next dish made for a welcome distraction.

The fried chicken parmigiana was easy to ignore as it was in the company of aggressive entrées like fish ‘n’ chips, crispy pork belly bagnet and beef and gravy. But it was straight up delicious and gave as much comfort as the others. A crisp-fried, herb-crumbed, perfectly seasoned pounded breast fillet acted as nest to grilled eggplant slices, cheese and thick tomato sauce. It was simple and satisfying, just like the spicy arrabbiata, which surprisingly was not as peppery as I thought it would be. The ricotta cream cheese and sweetness of the tomatoes tamed the heat and tempered the flavors just right.

Mango Tres Leches (PHP195)

The desserts in the menu felt rich and heavy in print, so after the filling meal (portions were good for two), I opted for the lightest of the cakes. The mango tres leches provided just the right finish and enough sweetness to cut through the lingering tartness left in my mouth by the previous dishes — and the surrounding noise.
 
Chelsea Kitchen, G/F SM Fashion Hall, SM Megamall; +63 2 9097012. Coconuts Manila dined anonymously and paid for this meal.

Photo from Chelsea Kitchen Facebook page
 

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