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COCONUTS HOT SPOT — It has been three days since I ate in Skull and Bones, and while I may not have a severe case of forgetfulness just yet, the meal I had at The Bowery’s frat brother of a restaurant escapes me.
I remember the teal-colored walls that feel bare even when adorned with paddles, golf clubs, soccer balls and a deer head. Or the rather tacky blue-and-white checkered floor tiles. But the food? Let’s just say it’s a good thing I took down notes and photos; my memory fails me, sad to say.
Simple and understated — can’t say the same thing about the food.
I guess the floor is an ode to ADMU vs. DLSU?
I have been a long-time fan of The Bowery at the Burgos Circle in BGC. The mere mention of the name conjures crisp memories of the grilled strawberry shortcake and the only chocolate cake I swear by: Death by Chocolate. Although I really, really want to, I don’t think I can say the same with Skull and Bones. Not that I despise the restaurant. I don’t. I want to love it as much as I do The Bowery but I just can’t.
Gingered pork ramen (PHP200)
Like the interiors, I feel that the food is half-baked. It’s a bit short of what it’s trying to be — or at least what I hope it would be. Take, for example, the gingered pork ramen, which was true to its name and was redolent of the bitingly sweet and peppery flavor the root is known for. The broccoli and bean sprouts were more evident than the meat, and the noodle was close to losing its bite. It was served in a deep soup bowl, reminiscent of the cup noodles of the good ol’ college days. With that intent, it was successful in being tongue-in-cheek and tied up to the concept, but it was done at the expense of the dish as it made for an experience better off in college dorms and not in a restaurant.
Steak chimichurri burrito (PHP420)
The steak chimichurri burrito was stuffed with ingredients like brown rice, sliced tenderloin, chili, cilantro, two cheeses and beans. What it forgot to pack though was seasoning and flavor. The brightness often relegated to chimichurri and the meat’s beefy taste were both undetectable. At this point, I thought maybe I was being unfair for setting such high expectations. But I saw that my friend barely touched his burrito as well so I guess the feeling was mutual.
Skull Crusher Burger (PHP550)
Of what we ordered, the Skull Crusher Burger held the most promise. It is a hardworking burger and has a lot going on — cheddar and Monterey jack cheeses, smoked bacon, fried onions, jalapeno, mushroom gravy, lettuce and tomato, and a 2.5-oz patty. It added up to a wonderful amalgamation of textures and nice flavors. Yet, even if it was ably executed, it still got lost in memory. It was a juicy burger, but it lacked a certain character that would have surely made it the restaurant’s signature dish, one that will drag people in.
Regardless of my unfortunate meal, I still haven’t lost all hope on this restaurant. I see the potential and with just a few polish here and there, I know Skull and Bones can be at par with the rest of the group’s notable restaurants. Until then, you’ll find me at The Bowery, enjoying my bowl of steamed mussels.
Skull and Bones, 2/F UP Town Center, Katipunan Avenue, Quezon City; + 63 917 5322612.
Coconuts Manila dined anonymously and paid for this meal.
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