eum·ma·ne gives new life to Korean food

By Angelo Comsti

Mar 24, 2015 | 9:37am Manila time

COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Korean is one of the cuisines that has fast become mainstream in the Manila dining scene. Nowadays, it’s not hard to find a Korean restaurant around the corner. But while there are a lot of them all over the city, many offer the same things. Not at eum·ma·ne though.

There’s Japchae and a limited number of banchan, but with a menu full of creative and inspired dishes, do you really want choose those? “In the same way that in the Philippines, there are so many different types of dishes throughout the country, Korean food is very similar,” says co-owner Jerome Smooth. “Traditional [Korean food] is established in Manila already. We want to bring new things to the table. We have a lot of dishes that you don’t find in other restaurants.”

Like its homemade kimchi in bowls, for example. At eum·ma·ne, it comes sandwiched in between quesadillas, sharing space with cheese, and served with cilantro sour cream and Gochujang-spiced tomato salsa. Beef bulgogi is stuffed inside jalapeños that’s been wrapped and secured with a nori sheet, breaded then deep-fried.

The dishes take typical ingredients in a Korean kitchen and transform them into something more playful and indulgent. A number of restaurants are known to employ the same concept — fusing cuisines together — and while those seem contrived, eum·ma·ne’s fare is not.

Inspired by the same whimsy famed LA-chef Roy Choi has become recognized for, chef Niño Logarta takes his cue from co-owner Grace Lee with regard to the flavors of Korea then gives them his own spin to come up with food that successfully satisfies.

The Baked Bacon and Cheese Mandu, for example, is his version of the all-time favorite mac and cheese. He makes them Korean by stuffing the dumplings with pork and vegetables peppered with the familiar flavors of the country then smothers them with a rich Mornay sauce strewn with bacon.

The Bulgogi Ribs are so tender, hardly any effort is required for the fork and your teeth to slice through the juicy meat. That is achieved by slow-baking the marinated pork for long hours then allowing it to kiss the grill after for that lovely aroma and smoky taste. The ribs have been glazed with a Gochujang sauce and to cut through the subtle spice and fat, crisp sweet potato chips and nori-dusted corn on the cob are served on the side.

Ideal for a party of four or more and perfect for a hungry two is the Bossam Pork. It’s a make-your-own lettuce wrap composed of slices of braised and grilled pork belly, homemade kimchi, batons of fresh pear, confit garlic and a sauce made with bagoong.

The Honey-Glazed Salmon, though not as mouthwatering as the sight of hefty meat, proves its rightful spot among other heavy hitters in the menu. The coral-colored plank of fresh fish has been pan-seared and placed snugly on a mound of noodles surrounded by velvety smooth soy milk veloute. The fish is cooked to medium rare (which is how I like it), with the meat still relatively opaque and moist without being fibrous.

Unlike Korean restaurants that only have packed ice cream and/or fresh fruits to cap their meals with, eum·ma·ne has put the same amount of creativity and effort in coming up with their desserts.

Banana Milk, a popular beverage in Korea, for instance, has been transformed into a cheesecake. Stewed bananas, specked with black sesame seeds and red chili powder and cupped by a tuille act as crown to the inviting cake. The Gochugaru Brownie excites the palate just as much as it brings to the plate the delicious combination of chocolate and chili. It is served ala mode, helping to tame the heat of the spiced pastry.

eum·ma·ne manages to combine cuisines without the dishes tasting superficial or forced. The food is definitely worth taking a break from the traditional for. And I can say the same with its soju concoctions like the Buko Pandan Soju, Cinnamon Soju (with Yakult!) and Raspberry Soju. In fact, I don’t mind dropping by or hanging out at this joint just for a drink. It is a soju bar after all.

eum·ma·ne; Unit L-130, Estancia Mall, Capitol Commons, Pasig. +63 2 9970391, +63 927-8373862. Sun-Thurs 11am-3pm and 6-11pm. Fri & Sat 11am-3pm, 6pm-1am.