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COCONUTS HOT SPOT — The 90-seater modern Japanese restaurant opened just two weeks ago at the third floor of the SM Mega Fashion Hall, but already, it’s the hot, new buzzword among Manila’s food lovers.
Not surprising: Chef Bruce Ricketts, who takes care of the menu duties of this Moment Group outing, is one talented guy. We knew it then, the first time he served us a plate of carefully prepared sashimi at his little known Sensei Sushi on Aguirre. And as we bit into the kangkong tempura of the Uma Viche at Ooma, we were again reminded of the fact.
Ooma is not a spin-off of the incredibly successfully and equally incredibly difficult to book Mecha Uma. Yes, the names of the restaurants are a tad too close to each other and given the players involved — Chef Bruce and Moment Group — comparisons are hard not to make.
The difference between the two, however, is harder not to notice. Location alone should clue in the diner of the kind of restaurant Ooma is, as its price points, design and the overall vibe.
Like most of its Moment Group siblings, Ooma has a certain kind of tempo that fits the young, urban, and discerning diner. You enter the restaurant and you feel that nice positive uptempo funk take over. The narrow restaurant is made to look like a dressed-up warehouse, at least at the front of the restaurant, where unfinished gray walls alternate with — is that yero? There is a small red bar on the left corner, perhaps as an accent.
The more zen-like vibe can be felt inside the restaurant where afternoon sunlight streams from the windows hitting the nice light wood of the chairs and tables. The waiters are quick and snappy, but more importantly, they are respectful, service-oriented, and well-groomed.
It’s Japanese, but it’s not the zen and the solemn Japanese that we know. More like hip, young and mobile, there! Here, you can feel and see and taste that Bruce, and the rest of the Moment group, came to play.
And they are playing. Bruce is clearly unafraid to play with flavors and ingredients, even with his plating. Oh, the burst of color, and then hmm, the zing and the zang of the flavors in our mouth!
The Uma Viche (PHP195) is a beautiful sculpture-like thing to mess, but dig in. You’ll notice how nicely coated the large kangkong tempura pieces and the lapu-lapu are with the ceviche dressing.
The O-gyoza (PHP235) is an easy early favorite, not so much for the cheese as it is for the unagi sauce.
The flavors of the Corn and Oyster Kaki-age (PHP155) are on the complicated side, they almost over shadow the fact they actually go well together.
Ooma’s Taco-Maki concept is not for first dates or budding romances. It’s inspired by the cone-shaped temaki except at Ooma, they’re plated like personal-sized tacos. An order comes in two pieces best experienced with hands.
With the amount of small plates on offer, it’s almost too easy to forget that Ooma is a rice bar. Don’t. On this visit, we tried the Buta Kakuni Katsudon (PHP365) which is a huge bowl of Japanese rice, pork belly, and all the trimmings.
The bowl is large — good for three ladies or two persons at the very least. A spoonful and immediately, it reminded us of a warm blanket. The flavors were familiar, nothing was too striking, and the presence of the rice gives that safe and sound feel; definitely a comfort dish-in-the-making.
And while already full, we wanted to know what Bruce has in store for dessert. We ordered the Coconut Lime Panna cotta, which was interesting, still, yes but could use some tweaking. We liked the rice crispies that topped the light lime flavored panna cotta but thought the chili powder — was that chili? — was a tad too strong.
Which brought to mind: Ooma is all about being bold. It’s not afraid to explore what’s new. Maybe that’s where that kick is coming from.
3/F SM Mega Fashion Hall, SM Megamall, Mandaluyong. 10am-10pm.
California taco-maki (PHP135) is best eaten with your hands.
The Buta Kakuni Katsudon (PHP365) is comfort-food-in-the-making.
The Salmon skin aburi-maki (PHP265) is one of the many impressive aburi-makis on offer.
Corn and Oyster Kaki-age (PHP155) has very advanced and complicated flavors.
O-Gyoza (PHP235) meanwhile is an easy, early favorite.
The Coconut Lime Panna Cotta (PHP220)
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