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COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Sidling up to Wildflour in Legazpi Village is Nikkei, an au courant new spot serving Japanese-Peruvian cuisine.
The owners have gotten the feel right: structured and “global moderne” with its glass entrance, high ceilings, and concrete walls and floors. Still, the cool interiors remain inviting and welcoming, thanks to the long, sweeping curve of the light wood counter wrapping around the open kitchen.
Diners — hipsters, stylish seniors, couples, and families — will enjoy the theatrical feel of the place but will soon forget about seeing or being seen once the food starts arriving.
Nikkei brings Nobu-style fusion food to Manila thanks to its local owners and a brilliant Argentine chef, Cristian Cejas. He melds Peruvian signature touches (corn, cilantro, causa, etc.) and classic Japanese dishes with cooking techniques from both these outstanding culinary traditions.
The union is beautiful to behold, feels delicate on the tongue, yet tastes exciting to the palate. The kitchen did an impressive job of bringing the numerous dishes we ordered, both hot and cold, to our table simultaneously. That’s no small feat for a new restaurant and a really important factor when you want to commune seamlessly at the table with your favorite people
I thought the Green Ceviche (PHP360) was an inventive and delicious take on the classic Peruvian dish, and I truly enjoyed the Peruanito (PHP1,400), which is sashimi sliced the Peruvian way.
But I won’t soon forget how my neurons fired upon sinking my teeth into the Seared Tuna (PHP650). It was charred to carbon-y perfection on top and caressed on the side by a sensuous risotto Huancaina, which is a spicy, creamy Peruvian sauce that typically blankets a bed of potatoes.
Halfway through dinner someone in our party of eight whispered to me, “This is the best restaurant meal I’ve had all year.” I couldn’t have agreed more. We ended it with the Tres Leches (PHP198), which was topped with mango slices and had perfect consistency.
Nikkei, Unit G03, Frabelle Building, 111 Rada St, Legaspi Village, Makati. 11am-2:30pm, 3-5pm, 6-11pm. +63927 2730114, +63 2 8800231.
Green Ceviche (PHP360). An inventive and delicious take on the classic ceviche
Peruanito (PHP1,400). Sashimi sliced, Tiradito style (aka the Peruvian way)
Seared Tuna (PHP650). Just, perfection.
The kurobuta miso (PHP550). This is a bit of an uneven experience, could be improved if the kurobuta came a tad less thick.
The Norito cocktail (PHP165). A twist on the mojito, wittily garnished with nori strips.
Beautiful interiors.
Headline and interior photo: Nikkei/Instagram; Seared tuna: Stephanieo01/Instagram
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