Our ties with our former colonizer, Spain, have sunk into the roots of our culinary preferences. Spanish fare is still lauded on our shores, and many time-tested restaurants, some birthed during the Spanish era, have survived decades, if not centuries, even in this cut throat culinary climate. We track down the oldest Spanish restaurants in the metro and let you in on what’s still worth ordering.
See also: 14 oldest Chinese restaurants in Metro Manila
Ambos Mundos
Although its location has changed from Palanca Street and has been updated with more modern interiors, Ambos Mundos, perhaps the country’s oldest existing Spanish restaurant, was founded in 1888. It’s a humble restaurant, with wallet-friendly prices and a menu which spans more than just Spanish dishes now. Sure there are the house-specialties of Paella Manilena (from PHP488), chorizo (from PHP198), and calamares (fromPHP 268), but there are also a great deal of Filipino and Chinese dishes on the menu like chopsuey (from PHP180), fish congee (PHP148), and family-sized portions of pancit canton (from PHP998). 750 Florentino Torres St, Sta Cruz, Manila; +63 2 7341160. Call for opening hours.
Casino Español de Manila
Founded by Spaniards in 1893, this Ermita club was originally founded as a recreational venue for both the insulares and peninsulares. However, Casino Español de Manila has since opened its doors to all nationalities in an attempt to strengthen ties with locals. Although it’s a members-only club, outsiders can dine in but pay 10 per cent surcharge. On the grounds is a swimming pool and sporting facilities as well as a small dining hall where Spanish cuisine is served. Expect Spanish classics like paella, gambas al ajillo, and sangrias to be served. 855 Teodoro M. Kalaw St, Ermita, Manila; +63 2 5257604. Call for opening hours.
Casa Marcos
Opened in 1945 on Roxas Boulvard by Marcos de Guisasola, a Spaniard. However, when de Guisasola moved back to his home country in the sixties, he sold the business to Ben del Rosario. The business has since stayed in the del Rosario family and has kept a few favorites on the menu, which can tend to run on the pricey side. Dishes like lengua salpicao (PHP345), Spanish sisig (PHP245), and gambas (PHP320) populate the tapas menu, whereas dishes like fillet mignon (PHP550), callos (PHP365), and paella con safron (PHP895) reside on the menu of main dishes. F121 Forbeswood Heights, Burgos Circle, Rizal Drive, Bonifacio Global City, Taguig; +63 998 1791621, www.casamarcos.ph. Mon 11am-10pm, Tue-Thu 12pm-11pm, Fri & Sat 12pm-1am, Sun 11am-10:00pm. Photo: www.facebook.com/casamarcos
Alba Restaurante Espanol
Freshly arrived from Spain in 1952, Don Anastacio B de Alba founded Alba Cocina Espanola. Now known as Alba Restaurante Espanol, it has a handful of chains around the metro, in areas such as Tomas Morato, Makati and Alabang. The cuisine sticks to its traditional roots and serves up an incredibly long list of Spanish foods like Pollo al Horno (PHP750), Cacalao a la Vizcaina (from PHP650), Lentejas con Chorizo (PHP220), and Tortilla de Gambas (PHP380). Try a handful of their creations over their daily lunch buffets (PHP695 per adult; PHP350 per child) or their weekend dinner buffets (PHP750 per adult; PHP375 per child). 38 Polaris Street, Bel Air, Makati, with branches in Metro Manila; +63 2 8966950, www.alba.com.ph. Call for opening hours.
Dulcinea
Today, Dulcinea is known as a massive chain proffering a menu predominantly filled with sweets and baked goods. However, it was founded back in 1963 in Ermita by Spaniard Santos Ruanos whose grandparents ran a pasteleria in Spain. Now owned by a Tsinoy family, offered here are Spanish dishes with a Filipino touch, such as tapas, soups, salads, pastas, and mains. However, a trip to Dulcinea isn’t complete without an order of churros con chocolate (PHP118), so save room for these fluffy rings which are deep-fried to golden brown crisp and served with a sweet, thick, bitter hot chocolate. Also worth ordering on the dessert menu is the leche flan (PHP45), sansrival (PHP75), and silvanas (PHP60). 282 Tomas Morato Ave, Bgy Laging Handa, QC; +63 922 9703761, www.dulcinea.com.ph. Mon-Sun 7am-10:30pm.
Barbara’s
A meal at Barbara’s is like stepping into a time capsule. The restaurant, which was founded in 1972, is located on two levels of a heritage building on Intramuros’ Plaza San Luis. The interiors of the restaurant, however, look as though they haven’t been updated since its installation, so expect to see shiny wood panelling, chandeliers, and doilies galore. On the menu, although mainly Spanish, are international dishes like ground beef tacquitos (PHP165), spinach lasagne (PHP245), and crispy pata (PHP675). Plaza San Luis, General Luna Street, Intramuros; +632 5273893, Facebook, Monday-Sunday 11:00am-2:00pm and 6:00-9:00pm. Photo: www.facebook.com/BarbarasHeritageRestaurant
La Tienda
La Tienda, a restaurant and gourmet shop, has been dishing out traditional Spanish eats for thirty years. Founded in 1986, this eatery offers an extensive menu of hearty Spanish and Basque dishes like Mallorquin-style sea bass with prawns and vegetables (PHP680), shrimps wrapped in bacon (PHP325), and roasted suckling piglet (PHP4500) which has to be ordered one day in advance. After your meal, walk home with more Spanish delights from the shop, such as Spanish anchovies, mussels, cured meats, and freshly baked breads. 43 Polaris Street, Bel Air, Makati; +63 2 8904123. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.
Ilustrado
Intramuros’ Ilustrado is perhaps the only Spanish restaurant in town which has been graced by Spanish royalty as the King and Queen have dined here not once, but twice. A favorite with tourists and for wedding venues, this romantic spot is housed in a beautiful heritage two-storey building made of wood and brick and surrounded by lush foliage. The primary concern of the menu is Spanish fare, boasting dishes like callos Madrilena (PHP450) and jamon serrano (PHP42), but there are global favorites like caesar salad (PHP320) and Canadian maple-glazed US baby back ribs (PHP850) to be had, too. 744 Calle Real del Palacio, Intramuros; +63 922 8234981, www.ilustradorestaurant.com.ph. Mon-Sat 8am-9pm, Sun 8am-6pm.
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