Makati’s Smith Butcher and Grill Room is high-end casual steakhouse done right

COCONUTS CRITIC’S TABLE — When we arrived at Smith Butcher and Grill Room at 9:50pm on a weeknight, I was pleasantly surprised that despite the relatively late hour for dinner, the place was still humming with around 20 guests.

Not that we had reason to worry about feeling crowded — the restaurant’s high ceilings and amply-distanced tables gave the spare and unfettered interiors a very spacious feel, while the dim lighting and high-energy dance music gave it an edgy vibe.

My date and I were greeted and shown to a table as soon as we arrived, and all throughout our meal, a server was always nearby so we never had to wait.

Our table faced a glass-walled butchery room, where meat is aged (wet and dry) and professionally butchered. If they’re not busy, we were told, you can watch the chef cut your steak fresh from the beef, or cut it yourself with his assistance. Nice touch!

Scanning the menu, I noticed immediately that they charged for bread. From a restaurant’s point of view, this is an excellent way to cut costs and reduce waste, and I support them in that.

The steak selections at were a delight to peruse. Many had two country of origin options (one pricier than the other), and there was also a Chateaubriand for two or four persons, which is a rarity in Metro Manila.

When our server took our order, I had expected at least sort of rundown on what was in season, but she was very indifferent. Even later when the dishes we ordered were served, no one bothered to describe what was on the plate, its provenance or how it was prepared.

We skipped the cocktails and started with a poached lobster Caesar’s salad (PHP390). Delectable. The romaine lettuce was so fresh and still crispy, and the chef used just the right amount of anchovies to flavor the dish without overpowering it. 

For mains, my date had the Double King Henry Pork Chop (PHP898). In the world of pork cuts, the King Henry cut rules with justice and grace. The French-trimmed chop is usually brined and cooked to perfection, with the fat strip scored in a crosshatch pattern to create a richer taste experience.

At Smith, they cooked the chop sous vide (which yielded a juicer cut of meat that was done to perfection from edge to edge) and seared on the grill. It was served on a bed of finely whipped potatoes, which managed to maintain a firm, substantial texture, something “silk” mashed potatoes often lose. The chop did not disappoint; it tasted as exquisite as it looked. 

Before my entrée arrived, a server stepped forward with a wooden box, and opened it as if presenting a choice of pistols to one engaged in an 18th century duel. The box contained various steak knives. I chose a large serrated knife for my French filet mignon (PHP2995; they offer a US-sourced filet for PHP1800 as well).

If you’re a steak aficionado , you may be disappointed to hear I went for the filet mignon, as tenderloin is perceived as “boring” due to its sparse marbling compared to ribeye and other cuts.

However, I have been to the mountaintop, and I have seen! I’ve had the famed Double Gold Filet Mignon over at Elbert’s Steak Room (ask for it, it’s not on the menu), which proved to me that filet mignon can be flavorful and interesting.

I also wanted to know how a Charolais filet mignon, air-flown from France to be cut on site before being grilled over native wood and charcoal and broiled at 1200°c, tasted.

In a word, it was superb. For sides I had the asparagus with Béarnaise sauce (done perfectly, not too much  sauce) and the mac and cheese, which was special; it tasted like home. If you like rich foods, order the bone marrow and mashed potatoes as your sides, and drizzle the bone marrow over them for a treat.

For dessert, we ended with a baked Alaska (PHP298) that was executed perfectly and flambéed at our table.

Smith doesn’t have to be expensive, with entrées starting at PHP650 and a flank steak for PHP750. You could even do a light lunch by ordering two or three sides on their own (PHP150 to PHP250). 

Chef de cuisine Steven Scudder and chef-owner Tom Hines have set a new standard for high-end casual dining in Metro Manila, and I hope that establishments that came before and those that come after can emulate the singular attention to quality which Smith Butcher and Grill Room is now providing.

G/F ACI Building, 147 H De La Costa St, Salcedo Village, Makati; +63 2 8339623. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 6pm-1am. Sat & Sun 6pm-1am.



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