COCONUTS HOT SPOT — In this part of town, Latin American cuisine is the in thing, but Don Andres Peruvian Kitchen is more than just a trend. From its humble and nondescript beginnings, it has evolved to a cult favorite with a loyal following.
It is proof that “comfort food” does not always need to come from your usual array of Italian, American, Japanese or even Filipino restaurants.
Choosing a dish here doesn’t feel like a culinary maze because Don Andres has made Peruvian food seem familiar. Dishes are like traditional homestyle Pinoy food — that means big portions of meat and carbs.
Don’t be fooled though. Don Andres pushes for emphasizing authentic Peruvian flavors. Their magic lies in their ability to make the dishes culturally distinctive without making them too exotic for Pinoy tastebuds.
Nothing can be more Peruvian than starting with a nice plate of ceviche. It’s like kilawin’s more adventurous big sister. Ceviche is raw fish cured in citric juice, but it has more depth and texture than kilawin.
Ceviche mixto (PHP380) is a variety that includes raw octopus and squid in addition to the fish. It is served with traditional Peruvian staples like oversized corn, sweet potato and cilantro, topped with a lot of onions. The flavor is tangy and spicy with a hint of sweetness. And the texture travels from tender (seafood) to crunchy (oversized corn) to starchy (sweet potato, yellow corn). The ceviche alone is enough reason to go back to this restaurant.
For mains, the pollo a la brasa, (PHP195 for one-fourth, PHP380 for one-half, PHP680 for one whole) with its bold flavors and citrusy kick, is a sure crowd-pleaser.
It is your usual rotisserie chicken but with a more complicated marinade. Though the chicken is served with a triad of sauces (chunky chimmichuri, aji verde sauce and garlic mayo), it can very well stand on its own. The crispy, glossy skin is filled with flavors, while the inside is juicy and tender — just how Peruvian chicken should be.
The chicken goes well with the arros con mariscos (PHP395), or seafood rice with wine sauce. This entrée is somewhere between a paella and a rissoto. It puts together two Peruvian culinary staples: seafood and rice. The result is pure beauty. The dish is deceivingly simple, but it has a strong but precise taste. The final touch? A squeeze of lime juice to balance out all the flavors.
The lomo saltado (PHP420) is a hearty, high-calorie dish which represents Peru’s Asian influence. The stir-fried tenderloin strips is marinated in signature Peruvian fashion, with lots of acid and spices. But there’s also a touch of Asian flavor with soy sauce and vinegar. The strong, savory taste is balanced by onions and fried potato. Because of its strong taste, lomo saltado is best eaten with plain rice. Matching it with the arros con mariscos is just too much for the palette.
With a menu that also includes postres (Peruvian desserts) like pia de limon, tres leches, and picarones, Don Andres Peruvian Kitchen promises a complete gastronomic experience.
Peruvian sweets are generally filling. Alfajores (PHP65/three pieces), shortbread cookies sandwiching dulce de leche, are the lightest treat on their list. The cookies will melt in your mouth. And the dulce de leche has just the right amoung ot sweetness with a hint of salt.
Compared with Mexican or even Brazillian, Peruvian cuisine is one of the least explored in the country. Don Andres Peruvian Kitchen distinguishes itself as one of the pioneers in introducing Peruvian food to Pinoy tastebuds.
By pushing boundaries, small, unassuming restaurants like this hold the key to the future of Filipino gastronomy.
G/F Courtside Building, 26 Sgt Esguerra Ave, Bgy South Triangle, Quezon City; +63 2 3644145, www.facebook.com/DonAndresRestaurant. Daily 11:30am-3am, 6pm-11pm.
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