COCONUTS HOT SPOT — Mighty Quinn’s has arrived in Manila.
With its modern-rustic interior, wooden tables, metal chairs and an assembly-style cafeteria counter, the award-winning barbecue joint feels like a no-fuss casual restaurant offering meat, meat, meat.
Mighty Quinn’s in 2010 began as an overnight star at Brooklyn’s open-air food market, Smorgasburg. The first brick and mortar restaurant opened in Dec 2012 and has since grown to six locations in New York and New Jersey, with the first international branch in Taipei, Taiwan.
According to the New York Times, Mighty Quinn’s “changed New York’s barbecue game” in 2013. It was the year when it was included in the publication’s Top 10 Best Restaurants.
“Cooking the old school way, with wood and time,” says a sign painted on the wall. This also says a lot about the founder and pit master Hugh Mangum, who looks like a guy who truly cares about getting things right.
While prepping and cutting the meat, Hugh suggested the use of hands when eating the Brontosaurus, a humongous slab of beef ribs that is nearly as huge as his face.
He also said that ribs that are truly smoked should not be falling off the bone and should have a “snap” to it when eaten.
Mighty Quinnʼs borrowed from the great barbecue traditions of Texas and North Carolina to create a uniquely New York barbecue experience.
“We’re New-York based. It’s chef-driven and there is emphasis on all parts of the meal,” explained Hugh when asked about what makes Mighty Quinn’s different.
He said that barbecue in classic places like Texas is all about the meat. In Mighty Quinn’s, however, there is attention given to the complete experience.
“We want every aspect of the meal to be equally important as the next,” he said.
Hugh created side dishes that go well with the smokey and savory main attraction but are still good enough to be eaten on their own.
The acidic pickled add-ons (cucumber, red onion, chiles, and celery) and the two kinds of coleslaw (vinegar based or cream based) really go well with the fat and flavor of the meat. The baked beans is a standout. It’s savory thick and surprisingly hearty for a fast-casual restaurant. The sweet potato casserole is on the sweet side, and is good enough for dessert! (Sides are at PHP165 for the small serving)
Recognizing that “buns are considered snacks” in Manila, Hugh and his team added dirty rice (PHP89) to the menu. The flavor is enhanced with calamansi (which Nigella Lawson also loved, BTW). Hugh is even considering bringing the dirty rice to Taipei and to the US as a special.
So how’s the meat?
Hugh explained that the secret is in the oakwood, which adds a distinct smokey flavor. Also, he gives prime importance to the meat used in the restaurant, which is naturally-raised.
Before even tasting the meat, the smoky scent will hit you first, and it will set your expectations just right.
Tip: It’s pretty hard to choose, especially when you’re in front of the counter, with all the options in front of you, but the staff is friendly and knowledgeable. Go ahead and ask them for recommendations.
The brisket (PHP495) seems like something that Filipino taste buds will approve.It’s blackened from the grill and rubbed with salt, pepper, paprika and other secret spices. The end-cut is the best part!
The pulled pork (485PHP) has the right balance of sweet, savory and smoky. It’s just the kind of ulam that will go well with the dirty rice. Hey, rice is life for Filipinos!
It’s hard to imagine the Brontosaurus ribs (PHP1,450) with a knife and fork, so you might as well take Hugh’s advice and use your hands instead. It’s huge, fatty and begging to be chomped on. Make sure to share!
“It’s about patience. It’s about consistency,” said Hugh about what it takes to be a pit master.
He likened smoking meat to running a marathon. It’s about being slow and steady. And you have to be in it for the long haul, he said.
Barbecuing is a trainable skill, he said, but what really shapes a pit master are life experiences. It’s important to be open-minded and grounded.
“If you aren’t cut out to kind of suffer, then it’s not for you,” Hugh said.
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